Riding furiously into an oncoming storm with the vigor, if not speed of a world-class bicycle racer wasn’t my idea of a perfect day of riding; it was however a typical day of riding in New Zealand.
The Kelvin Heights Track is one of several very enjoyable trails in and around the south island town of Queenstown, New Zealand. Starting at the Kawarau Bridge in suburban Frankton the eight-kilometer trail flows along the banks of beautiful Lake Wakatipu. Surrounded by tall blue-hued jagged mountains capped with bright white snow, the area certainly has a European alpine appearance to it. Although the trail is not particularly long or difficult there is a variety of terrain to explore and pretty sights to see as it rolls through the alpine-esque landscape.
In the beginning the track sedately meanders through a holiday park (RV and tent camp ground). Gorgeous homes that aficionados of modern architecture will appreciate are perched along the banks of the lake – this is an “urban” trail. Later, the track gains a little altitude as it skirts along small cliffs and becomes a bit more aggressive. Small dips and climbs as well as a few rather rocky and technical descents keep the advanced and/or intermediate level rider entertained, while beginners and less confident riders can easily walk these short areas without a problem.
The sun was out for us. It was a gorgeous azure-sky day by any standards, but especially by New Zealand’s rainy natured standards. As my wife Kelli and I had already ridden the sedate but equally long Frankton Track prior to taking on Kelvin Heights, we felt it was time for a short rest and a snack. There are many trailside benches available that all offer a wonderful view while taking a break.
During the second half of the tract, the trail occasionally crosses a small park, road or some other trail-interrupting obstacle. We found that by staying close to the water the trail always appeared again in very short order. Near the later kilometer or so, best marked by the Wakatipu Yacht Club, the characteristics of the track take a giant bipolar-dual personality mood swing into another world!
The moment you reenter the trail and ride through the entrance gate at the Yacht Club you are immediately enveloped in a thick musty dark pine forest that is so dense it turns bright afternoons into overcast twilight. The forest floor is carpeted in a thick odiferous bed of long pine needles parted only by a thin strip of fat-tire freeway that twists, turns and undulates its way through this surprising challenging section. Intermediate and above riders will be delighted by this surprise, while most already tired beginners will not be thrilled pushing their bikes around in the dim-light woodland. All too soon the single-track amusement park ends – at a golf course no less, actually on the edge of a golf course green. A word of advice, keep your eye out for flying golf balls!
The best bet for transportation back to Queenstown or the trailhead at Kawarau Bridge requires riding back. As a surprised and dejected-faced unprepared French tourist out for a hike found out from us, there is no ferry service on Lake Wakatipu. It would be possible to have someone follow you to Kelvin Heights, drop off your vehicle and then shuttle you back to the start, but honestly why would you want to? Even if you leave from Queenstown, ride the adjoining eight-kilometer Frankton Track (easy) to the Kelvin Track, ride Kelvin and then reverse your route the entire round trip is a manageable and relatively easy 32 kilometers (about 19 miles) that can be leisurely experienced in about four hours with breaks.
As Kelli and I headed back towards Queenstown, the sky transformed from crystalline blue to murky pale gray. A cold stiff wind rolled across the lake stifling our forward progress. In the distance we could see a curtain of rain rolling in towards us. We thought about the poor French guy who was miles from town without a quick way back, had a good laugh and then, formed a pace line that would have made the US Postal biking team proud (at least of our effort). We rode with full on motivation trying to beat the storm into town.
Long story short, the storm won the race but it hardly mattered. Volatile weather is typical in New Zealand, you just have to say “POTA” (part of the adventure) and roll with it. Wet but happy, we spent the rest of this typical New Zealand day, sitting in a typical New Zealand pub, drinking many typical New Zealand maltose beverages as we warmed around a typical New Zealand pot-bellied stove. A typically wonderful ride and post-ride day in Kiwiland.