Mountain Biking
Queen Charlotte Track
Picton, New Zealand
The longest continuous single track in New Zealand offers lots of options and proves to be very rewarding!
04/2004 - by Dana Farnsworth, Outdoor Travels
Walking blindly, pushing our bikes in the pitch black darkness, we had to remind ourselves that the Queen Charlotte Track was indeed one of the official top 10 “Great Walks of New Zealand” and that it is also regarded as New Zealand’s best single track ride experience. With 71km (44 miles) of track stretching almost the entire length of New Zealand's Queen Charlotte Sound, it is the longest piece of continuous single track in the country. As good as all of that sounds, the hour or so that we spent on the trail in the dark, seemed like an eternity - more on that later.
The early indigenous residents, the Maori, used the Queen Charlotte Sound (Totaranui) as an important trade route. The Sound provided a temperate climate, good shelter and more than enough seafood for the many who lived there. The early European explorer Captain James Cook also recognized the same qualities the Sounds offered, making the current northern terminus of the track, Ship Cove, his New Zealand base. He spent more than 100 days there between 1770 and 1777. Since that time, the area has been a site of gold and antinomy mining, whaling, fishing and forestry. Now the Sound relies on tourism, creating a haven for hikers, bikers and kayakers.
The Queen Charlotte track passes through a variety of vegetation types, from grassy farmland to undisturbed native forests. The track isn’t always what a purist would consider single track. At times it can get up to 1.5 meters wide. The surface is mostly hard packed clay; hard and fast when dry but very slippery and almost unridable when wet, as we would soon find out.
While planning this ride, I didn’t have a concept of how long or how strenuous this trail could be to bike. After arriving in the quaint town of Picton, my wife Kelli and I strolled into the Marlborough Adventure Company on the waterfront, with only a general idea of what to expect in our heads. As we were soon to find out, the track is generally divided into four days of hiking and three segments (days) to bike.
The Queen Charlotte Track is unique in that a ferry is required to shuttle you to your starting point. As an added bonus, the ferry can also shuttle your packs daily to your next evening stop over if you so desire. This option is a great luxury for bikers and hikers. Unique feature number two would be the amount of lodging options one has. Spaced evenly along the track is a network of huts, lodges, resorts and campsites. The range of comfort is up to you – camping, backpacker’s bunks, luxurious rooms and everything in between is readily available! I have to admit that it was a very interesting experience to bike in the wilderness all day and then be able to take a shower, change clothes, drink a beer or two and have a great dinner (we choose the more comfortable options for this trip).
Our knowledgeable and helpful planner at Marlborough Adventure Company, Sara, was more than happy to help us plan our lodging, book our bag transfers and our ferry transportation to the beginning at Resolution Bay and the return ride back to Picton from the southern terminus of Anakiwa. As an added bonus, they also rent decent Specialized Hardrock bicycles. They even arranged for our campervan to be parked in a secure and covered area while we were away. The whole adventure can be a relatively expensive proposition if you stay in the more expensive resorts. However, there always seems to be more affordable options for the more frugal adventurer.
With ferry passes in hand, lodging booked, bag transfers arranged and bikes being loaded on the Cougar Line’s ferry, I was finally aware of the scope of this adventure – I couldn’t wait to get started! Our first day’s ride from Resolution Bay to Punga Cove (Camp Bay) was listed as taking around 4 hours to ride and is rated as an intermediate to experienced level ride. There is one 4km segment of trail to the north from Ship Cove to Resolution Bay that generally isn’t in the riding plan for mountain bikers. Apparently it begins with an immediate steep climb that requires pushing your bike for quite some time. It didn’t sound like an appealing beginning. As we were getting a late start and there was going to barely be enough daylight for us to make it to Punga Cove, I fought my completist urges and took Sara’s advice to start at Resolution Bay - in hindsight it was a damn good thing we did.
Resolution Bay to Punga Cove Resort/ Camp Bay
Sheep, climbing, glow worms and darkness - Kelli’s perceived immanent demise
Distance: 23.2 Kilometers
Estimated Time: 3.5 – 4.5 hours
Experience: Fit intermediate and up
Punga Cove/Camp Bay to Portage Resort/Torea Saddle
Rain, mud and more rain – Riding alone
Distance: 23.7 kilometers by trail
19 kilometers for the Kenepuru Road option
Estimated Time: 4 – 5 hours for trail, 1.5 – 2.5 hours by road
Experience: Trail – experienced, Road – Fit novice
Portage to Anakiwa
Pushing for what seemed like forever
Distance: 21 kilometers
Estimated time to ride: 3.25 to 4.5 hours
Skill Level: Experienced. Fit novice upwards from Waterfall Bay to Anakiwa
Trail Photos
Lots of great photos to give you a good idea of what riding here is like!
Resolution Bay to Punga Cove Resort/ Camp Bay
Punga Cove/Camp Bay to Portage Resort/Torea Saddle
Portage to Anakiwa
Featured Outfitter
Marlborough Sound Adventure Company
Picton, NZ
For information, bike rentals and complete planning nobody does it better than Marlborough Sound Adventure Company. From water taxi scheduling, the best rental bikes in Picton and arranging lodging to suit your budget, look no further.
Trail Snapshot
Trail(s): 71km (44 miles) of track stretching almost the entire length of New Zealand's Queen Charlotte Sound, it is the longest piece of continuous single track in the country.
Difficulty: Technical sections run the gamut of begginer to advanced level. Overall, to ride the QCT one should have a confident intermediate level of skill and a good level of fitness.
Outdoor Travels Rating:
4.5 bikes out of 5
Hardly could be better!
Multi-day ride was great!
Thumbs up:
- Lodging thoughfully spaced out and the variety good.
- Options exist to do any segment of the track that you would like.
- Scenery is sublime!
Thumbs down:
- Wet, sloppy and slick when wet
- Some sections are too steep to ride for anyone
- Water taxi transfers seem overpriced
Nuts & Bolts
Location: Marlborough Sound (near Picton) New Zealand
Notes:
- During the peak summer times from December 1 to February 28, only the last two sections from Punga Cove to Anakiwa can be cycled.
- The track can quickly become unridable during or after a heavy rain, so be flexible with your planning.
Facilities: Lots of lodging and camping options and facilities can be found conveniently spaced throughout the trail, which provide food and shelter.
Activities: Hiking and biking. Kayaking can also be arranged in the Sound.
Admission: none, hiking the track is free
Contact:
- Marlborough Sound Adventure Company, Picton, NZ
- Department of Conservation, Sounds Area Office, PO Box 161, Picton, New Zealand Ph: 03-520 3002
- For visitor information you should also try the Picton Visitor Information Centre
Lodging, rentals, Maps & Stuff
Planning: Marlborough Sound Adventure Company, Picton, NZ
The Waterfront, PO Box 195, Picton, New Zealand Phone: 080-028-3283
Bike Rental: Marlborough Sounds Adventure Company rents the best bikes in Picton for around $40 NZ a day.
Transportation: The Cougar Line Water Taxi Phone: 03-573-7925 (can be arranged at Marlborough Sounds Adventure Company)
Lodging: Hosts of options exists. A partial list from the northern terminus to the southern would include the following: RED indicates the ones reviewed here.
1. Resolution Bay Cabins
2. Furneaux Lodge - popular stop for hikers
3. Endeavour Resort
4. Punga Cove Resort – Very affordable lodging options. Best feature - Their top notch restaurant cooks up tasty fare. They are happy to pack a lunch for you too.
5. Mahana Lodge Homestead
6. Noelines Homestay
7. Portage Resort Hotel - Backpacker’s bunks to very nice (a bit pricey) private rooms exists as well as a great pub and fancy (best food of the trip) restaurant with a nice fireplace lounge area. Store nearby offers cheap eating options for the budget minded. Web: www.portage.co.nz
8. De Bretts Homestay
9. Lochmara Lodge
10. Te Mahia Resort near Waterfall Bay
11. Tirimona House at Anakiwa – Notably the only place in town to get a post-ride snack and wait for the ferry back to Picton.
Camping: There are seven DOC campsites, each with toilets and a water supply. Camping fees should be deposited in the self-registration boxes at the campsites, or paid to the DOC office in Picton.
From the northern most terminus down:
1. Schoolhouse Bay in Resolution Bay
2. Camp Bay at Punga Cove
3. Black Rock on Kenepuru Saddle Ridge
4. Mistletoe Bay in Onehau
5. Bay of Many Coves Shelter on Kenepuru Saddle Ridge
6. Cowshed Bay at Portage
7. Davies Bay in Umungata
