The duration of this walk is 7-8 days, although depending on fitness (SAS level) and time constraints it could be done in 5. Technically it is undemanding – elevating 500m’s over 152km – excepting some tricky sections around Loch Lomond. Early April to late October avoids the worst of the winter weather, and the summer months benefit from long hours of daylight (sunrise 4.30 -sunset 10.30 in late June). Beware the midges though!
The trail takes the walker through the ancient Caledonian forest and around the ‘Bonnie Banks O’ Loch Lomond’ – the UK’s largest body of freshwater – and beyond to the desolate Highland wilderness of Ranoch Moor and the 540m highpoint, the aptly named Devil’s staircase. It finishes at Fort William at the foot of Britain’s tallest mountain, Ben Nevis.
Camping
It is possible to camp wildly along much of the route, or alternatively, for those who value their creature comforts, in one of several well run campsites. Why not camp on one of the shingle beaches on the gently lapping shores of Loch Lomond for example? However, be advised here on 2 counts: Putting a tent up on a beach can be a unique and frustrating challenge (particularly in the dark); secondly, any waterside location is likely to suffer the worst infestations of the dreaded Scottish midge.
The Dreaded Scottish Midge
The midge must surely be the biggest single threat to the Scottish tourism industry, certainly during the summer months. These infuriating, tiny flies, swarm around the walker in clouds, particularly around dusk and dawn. It’s not so much their bites – slightly itchy red spots – as the sheer irritation of having them flying in your ears, up your nose and at worst down the back of your throat. The only thing that is an effective deterrent (forget commercially available repellents) is a breeze – they cannot fly in winds above 3-4 miles per hour – or smoke, so where appropriate build a campfire or else adopt a vigorous smoking habit!
Essential Equipment
As on any walk, blisters are to be avoided at all costs. Well worn-in, waterproof walking shoes, and good socks –kept as dry as possible – are a must; there is nothing funny about walking 152 kilometers on heel blisters the size of golf balls after sustaining them by lunchtime on the first day.
Even in the summer months, the West Highland weather is extremely changeable, and a waterproof outer layer and lightweight fleece are essential. If you are carrying heavy camping equipment you will need a good quality backpack; look for one with comfortable shoulder straps and rigid back supports. You should load your pack top-heavy with most of the weight taken by the rucksack’s waist strap.
For those who tire of their backpacks (and many do), porterage services are available (see Travel Lite).
Demanding But Worthwhile
Be realistic in your expectations; The West Highland Way is neither a gentle Sunday afternoon stroll nor a glorified pub crawl. If you are an inexperienced walker or unfit then expect to struggle, especially around the banks of Loch Lomond. Here you will encounter the ‘way’ at its most tortuous as it becomes bolder strewn, and sinews continuously up and down over slippery tree roots, streams and waterfalls. Even in dry weather, this part of the walk could easily result in turned ankles or hobbled knees.
With that said, the rewards are scenery as varied as it is spectacular, a Lord of the Rings-esque sense of adventure and when sipping that well deserved ice-cold end-of-the-day pint over a steaming plate of haggis and ‘tatties’, a great end-of-the-day sense of achievement.